Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Just finished them. Not that happy with the graphics, but the circuit mods work like a charm. You can set it to sound just like the un-modded opticomp (meaning fairly transparent) or dial in some really squashed sounds.




--Rob

Nice to see those holes used ... killer graphic on to too ...

Great job.

I would prefer to just have a single, permanent fast attack setting for my Opti-Comp (no switching). Could I accomplish that by just replaceing the 33uf cap with a 1uf cap, and no additional mods?

Yes that would be it.

Thanks for these pictures. I am going to do these mods to my opticomp. There are 2 things I am wondering about.

1. Should I put the caps as pictured here (leave 33uf cap where it is), or should I move the 33uF and put the 1Uf in it's place as described in the modifications thread.

"Put the switch in the empty holes in the PCB. Put the 1uf cap in the space marked for the 33uf cap. The 33uf and 100uf caps go in the empty spaces below the switch."

2. It looks like something was done with R10. Did a hole get drilled for the other side of the resistor to go thru? Could someone spell out how to wire the pot that replaces the 4.7k resistor? I am confused on how to do that. Hit the 1k resistor first then through the pot? Which lugs? Does one lug need to be grounded?

Thanks.

1. Follow the instructions in the modifications thread. This version of the mod isn't totally correct. It gives you 33uf, 34uf, and 133uf. The correct way from the mod thread gives you 1uf, 34uf, and 101uf.

2. It looks like he drilled a hole through the board but that isn't necessary. You can simply do the wiring from the other side. Connect one leg of the 1k resistor to one of the empty spaces from the 4k7 resistor. Now connect the other leg of the 1k resistor to lug 1 of the 50k pot. Lastly, connect lug 2 of the pot to the other empty hole from the 4k7 resistor. You shouldn't need to ground the pot.

That's what I wanted to know. Thanks much. Just have to get ahold of a pcb mountable switch.