Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Shouldn't there be a jumper connecting those two empty lugs on the footswitch?

Jooooosh,
I've seen alot of pictures with that as well, but the instructions don't call for it...(?)

Here is some more info:

I have resoldered the POTS and a few of the conncentions that looked "less than good".

I get NO sound when removing all three transistors.
I get NO sound with one transistor in Q2 OR Q3
I get VERY LOW clean sound with one transistor in Q1.
I get VERY LOW effect sound with transistor in Q1 and Q2.
I get NO DIFFERENCE when adding the third transistor to Q3.
I think I may have a bad transistor OR the socket for Q3 is bad or not right.

Does the way the board is wired support this theory? Thanks all.

This doesn't answer your question but when reading through the pdf, I noticed an error; the assembly and wiring diagram both say it uses a500k pot, but the parts list and the pot you got are a100k

Not for a positive ground circuit like the Mk.II fuzz.

ah, my bad. I thought that seemed a little too obvious and simple

To the topic starter, do you have a multimeter to test all the components? I skimmed over the instructions and everything seemed to be in the right place, so if you've re-soldered any poor solder joints my only guess would be there's bad component somewhere.

Hey....

I've got a multimeter, but sure don't have a good idea of how to use it. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks all.

Try watching this
http://tangentsoft.net/elec/movies/tt06.html

If you switch to "fuzz face" mode for testing purposes, it will make it easier to trouble shoot. Think of this as being similar to trouble shooting your computer in "safe mode".

1. Pull Q1 out of the socket.
2. Remove the 10K resistor
3. Pull the wire that is connected to the "IN" eyelet and move it to the "FF IN" eyelet.

Aside from a few minor component value differences, you've literally just converted your tonebender into a fuzz face. Since you now only need 2 transistors, if one is bad, you should be able to find which one it is by swapping them around.

If it's not the transistors, you've at least reduced the amount of circuit you need to trouble shoot by 1/3.

Thanks. I'll give it a try and report back.

Should current travel across a 103, 104 or 473 film cap? Also what should I read for continuity. I am not sure if these questions make sense, but in trying to trace for a bad part/connection, I came across this ?

Thanks,
Larry

Spent most of the day tracinmg circuits and checking and trying new parts ect.

There is something wrong that I cannot fix. All of the joints are good. This kit should not be this difficult. It has got to be a bad part that was shipped in the kit. I give up!!!!!!!!

Anyone want to buy this?

So....I ordered a new PCB (just in case) and a new trimmer (just in case). I am going to check all the components before attempting rebuild. I can now solder fairly well and am confident it will work this time.

BTW - Looking at the picture of the MK I that is posted under the "history of fuzz", I don't see how anyone could ever criticize the soldering on my project!

OK - I just finish total rebuild and .....

IT WORKS!!!!!!

Now I need to buy some new Ge trtansistors since one of mine broke a leg during the 101 rebuilds....

Any ideas?

The dude was probably very stoned at the time... remember it was the 60's