Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Here's a mod to the all familiar and often used Si Fuzz Face:



This HOT M fuzz has two feedback capacitors across the resistors to reduce the amount of treble at the output. Nothing very startling or innovative about the design, but I've been told that I can charge people almost any price and make them wait two years before delivering.

The following mods can be made:

Changing C2 to 680pF will reduce the treble by 3dB starting at about 1kHz upwards
Changing C3 to 68pF will reduce the treble by about 1,5dB from about the same point.

If you build this pedal and decide you want to sell it (especially on e-bay) please do not describe it as a "faithful reproduction" Although the initial design has been around for over 4 decades, it took me years of research and testing to add the capacitors and I don't want the rip-off merchants of this world claiming that their pedals (especially their inferior capacitors) are anywhere near as good as mine. I also expressly forbid the use of any words relating to any animal, living or dead, or any part of an animal, living or dead when decribing your rip-off of my exclusive design; if I find out that anybody has not observed the conditions above, my friends and I are going to start calling you names on our own sycophantic board.



Seriously, please note the pinout of Q2 (BC182L). If anybody has a suggestion for a replacement that uses the usual pinout, I'd be more than happy to do a second board.

tonmann rules!!!!

Try BC184 as replacement for Q2?

Could also try 47-100pf cap across R3?

Reduce volume pot to 100k.

10k trim pot at R4

Adding a 'smooth' control (100k lin pot before input cap) like the Axis face might be good too.

to add a Fuzz control, replace R5 with a B1K or B2K pot and connect C4 to lug two. IMHO it makes the pedal more versatile.

No it was not me who came up with this idea. i've seen once a schematic of a pedal with this mod... i think the pedal was called Fuzz Face or something...

To begin with, my thanks to both kaycee and adi for the suggestions - which I will look into and report back.

Before replying to this post, I'd be grateful if everybody would read: http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18625

Hopefully you can see the idea behind this thread.

Here's the second layout of HOT M Fuzz:



It uses a different pinout for Q2 (TO92C as opposed to a TO92A). In this case a BC182 is used. If you can't locate a BC182, a 2N5088 with a low hfe (under 500) might do the trick. Suggestions for a transistor substitution (only) would be appreciated.

Til 4th July !!!

someone post up a perf version of this puh-leeeeez


Dan

Dan, if I do one tonite, you promise to put it in a 1590A?

oh man......wouldn't that be the shizz-nit ?

Post up bro - I'll try to shrink it down...

Dan

Shoot! I think Dan could fit TWO in a 1590!!

You'll stand resistors, Right? One knob, standing resistors. We got plenty of space!

Will do tonite.

What Tranny you gonna use? So I can get the pinout right.

one of my "larger" layouts that'll just fit in a 1590 is 12 holes by 14 in DIYLC....

I'll def stand resistors.

We can get BC182 through Mouser (don't know if they're "L" - if that matters) I have 3904's in stock...

if that all helps.

Dan

The only difference between BC182L and BC182 are the pinouts.

ah,

Mouser has 182L's in stock also - so no worries.

Dan

Site wasn't working last night, so I didn't get a chance to do a layout (Built 90% of BYOC Analog Flanger instead). I am gonna use tonmann's Vero as template.
I will do it tonite, with BC182L pinout.
It will be way smaller than 12 x 14 probably 8 x10.

I have a chubby about this whole thing.......






Dan

appologies for my first post in this thread. now i know what this whole thing is about and want to contribute my two Schekels.


i have a perf layout 8 x 9 holes...

i want to double check it before i post it. give me about an hour or so...

EDIT: here it is (somebody triple check it, please)
- the positive side of C4 is marked in case you are going to use a polarized one...
- the green line is a bridge on the parts side
- R6 is the resistor for the LED if somebody is going to add one. if not, just leave it away.
- Pinout of Q2 is acording to the datasheet of a BC182: (a layout with a BC182L will come later today)


all


parts side


solder side (fliped)


cheers

Cool. This will save me some time, besides I realized I can't do it tonite, as I am going to see The Posies perform the entire "Frosting On The Beater" album. Yippee!

Take a look over at the original thread if you gonna build this. I am seeing if anyone is interested in a little friendly competition!

and here the BC182L perf board layout:

as above:
- the positive side of C4 is marked in case you are going to use a polarized one...
- the green line is a bridge on the parts side
- R6 is the resistor for the LED if somebody is going to add one. if not, just leave it away.
- Pinout of Q2 is acording to the datasheet of a BC182L:


all


parts side


solder side


cheers

Nice work. Thanks, bro. Let the games begin.
No Values, though?

aaah perf layouts help a lot, thanks!

i used the same part numbers than tonmann so the values are the same than in his schematic:

R1: 18k
R2: 120k
R3: 820R
R4: 4k7
R5: 1k
R6: 4k7 (depends on used LED)

C1: .01uF (10nF) (103)
C2: 470pF (471)
C3: 47pf (470)
C4: 10uF
C5: .022uF (22nF) (223)
C6: 47uF

Q1: 2N3904
Q2 (first layout): BC182
Q2 (second layout): BC102L

Cool, adi. I guess I was being lazy.

Tonmann, this was a very funny posting and actually highlights just how similar the two fuzzes are!