Build Your Own Clone Message Board

I recently completed both the Classic Phaser and the Flanger with success in a short interval of time, therefore I had the opportunity to compare the two methods very closely.
The existing comments visit well most of the issues I noticed, but to summarise my own view:

New Footswitch assembly:
Pros: Much simpler, less to go wrong so easier for first time builders, no need to understand the circuit, less wires and complexity, less crowded space and wires in the pedal, neater design, easy to remove completely.
Cons: Fiddly soldering in small spaces not for first time builders (which kind of nullifies the respective advantage), prone to malfunction/bad contact with movement, especially when taken appart and re-inserted (as I had to do).

For me, soldering the thing was not a challenge, I am quite experienced plus I had a good fine tip for my Weller.
However, the movement/connection issue, shook my confidence. I thought I had a major malfunction on the board, when it was simply the fact that the small connector is very sensitive as to where/at what precise angle it sits on the female one, on the PCB. I had the LED flikering, the pedal not working, and various other adverse effects, until I realised what it was, and finally found a position that works, and I tightened the screw on the footswitch to claim it. It may only be an issue of my unit, or indeed my connector, this I will figure out the next time, since I really loved the simplicity of the new design and I would like it to be a little more robust and inspire more reliability.

Maybe a little bit larger connector if one can fit on the boards would solve issues such as these, plus the fiddly soldering that bothered some people.

Great pedals by the way, thank you for all the hard work in designing the kits!

I like the small board for the push switch....the switch is made such that there is no way solder is going to short out on a pin next to it. I have been working on communications radios, amps , etc...and i always prefer a board rather than a bunch of wire....cant remember a board failing me.....but wires come loose break where they were stripped....and still must be soldered without cold joints....a little small wire on a heavy switch.....seems to me and it is just my opinion....the board and the switch solder up real nice and easy......I have a relay i solder eight wires to.....and if moving stuff around while working on an amp happens one of those little wires will break or come loose....i even tried using the socket for the relay....and considered making a board such as this one for my relays including the keying curcuit. I like the design so i will be quite now and let someone else talk....
davis,
ps
I have a fifty nine dollar weller soldering station...use 40/60 solder and use flux

i think it'd make it more confusing. the way it came (just a few wks ago) was perfect. now that i've built 2 of your clones, i'm ready to make my boost a true bypass. so, i think it's up to the builder whether or not he or she wants to "make it happen". i bought extra parts and an enclosure and built my own using your board. so no, don't change the kit.

BUT... maybe... make it an option for X amount of $ to "upgrade" to a true bypass form of the booster kit with all the parts and enclosure included.

you guys rock BYOC. you couldn't make it any easier! thanks for getting me started.

Hi everyone. I just finished my first build - a tremolo. And it actually works! I'm very excited and I love the sound. I had been very unhappy with most of the tremolo options available within my price range, and had planned to save up for a supa-trem. I don't feel the need for one now, as the half speed switch isn't really something I see myself ever using (though it is my understanding that I can mod the BYOC trem clone the supa-trem somewhat if I ever decide to). I'll post pics of my build when I paint the housing. I was too excited to complete the build to take the time to paint. I will get to it soon, though.

But back to the topic at hand, I'm just wondering whether the new foot switch assembly locks you into using the pedal housing that comes with the kit. If so, that seems to unnecessarily limit customization options in the name of promoting ease of assembly. However, I'll admit that the new foot switch assembly seems much less intimidating to me than doing it 'old school.'

-Travis

p.s. Maybe someone can answer this unrelated question for me. For making a pedal decal, can I use the window decal type of paper sold at craft stores? http://www.discountcartridge.com/windowdecal.html

Yup, I like the new assembly. I always found it a pain getting a pair of tinned wires onto pin 4.

Regarding the above question about window decal paper it may be a bit thick and there maybe problem lining up it up once applied to the pedal. For the full lowdown on decals check out this thread.

I like it. I've just done the 4 for 3 deal and the compressor was the only pedal to come with the new assembly so I was able to try both. The new assembly is easier, more idiot proof, looks more tidy, and is just an all around good idea.

Hey by the way man, flux is very handy for some applications but is not meant for printed circuit board work. It can eventually corrode the board and your connections. I'd stick with the 40/60 solder that has flux built into it. Any more than that might wreak havoc...

I like the speedy assembly, don't like it otherwise - just something else to fail. also, iF you ever have to replace the switch and the solder lugs aren't the same on the repacement, yer semi-screwed.

I have a good Hakko pencil tip soldering station, good tools, I know how switches work, and have spools of 22 to 28 AWG teflon wire, so I don't really mind tight work. I understand how frustrating it can be as a beginner. Still, I voted "nay". These projects aren't about reducing assembly labour. Learn to solder, learn to work carefully, learn to be methodical, keep it fun. All part of the value of the kits.

Great kits BTW, done two, have another in waiting to commence.

Dave

The reason I voted no was twofold:

1. The pin socket is delicate as are the pins and it's another place for corrosion to build up.

2. Since I needed to do significant troubleshooting my two last pedals I've noticed how easy the footswitch falls out when the assemblies are out of the chassis and I'm worried about the wear and tear on the connector and the pins.

Other than that I do think it's slick and elegant.

I would have to agree and used an old PC trick. I bent the outer 4 pins out slightly just to create a little more tension during the build.
Having built only one of each... and incidentally having more trouble with the newer style foot switch... I still prefer the newer style. If the pins or switch do go south, it would be much easier to replace them. Especially if you are a neater wiring guy (I said you )and you cut your wires shorter. I know I'm new to this but less wires is what I am all about.

I've built two pedals with the new assembly and a bunch with the old wiring method. The new assembly is really nice because when it's time to wire the switch, the pedal is almost done, and it speeds up that home stretch. It just takes me longer to strip and tin all that wire. Plus, the finished product looks nicer.

I can totally see why it would be difficult for a beginner builder though. Maybe, the best way to handle it would be to design the board for both (like the Reverb) and just include directions for the wiring?

I'm a noob, only two builds, but it seems like a well thought-out assembly, makes it easier to pop the guts out. I had no trouble soldering it, just went slow and used a fine tip. Combined with a 9v jack that doesn't have to be unsoldered to remove, it would speed up repairs or mods.

I Love it! It makes life soooooo much easier. I think if you're having troubles soldering, this makes it easier, not harder.
Just finished my 5 knob compressor build minutes ago. It worked right away without a hitch...well, as soon as I put the IC chip in the 9-pin slot!

Adam

I just built two BYOC kits - Marshall Blues Driver that has the board and pins, and a Large Beaver which required each wire to be hand soldered to the footswitch.

I strongly prefer the foot switch with the mini board than with bare wires. The mini board was a breeze to solder, and I like the small number of wires left. I can't speak to the reliability of the pins on the Blues Breaker, but my son has not complained about in the 2 months he has had it.

The bare wires on the Beaver's foot switch were the only part of the assembly that frustrated me, and they ended up in bit of a mess. The fun of assembling the kit was reduced by this and frankly, it made me think about looking into GGG kits.

On most connections, the wire's vinyl coating softened and spread at the ends of the wires, so there is more bare wire exposed than there should be. I found it difficult to solder two wires to the same hoop. Hemostats for a heat sink were not very helpful because they squeezed and corrugated the vinyl near the ends. I also accidentally touched the iron to the side of the coating of a couple of wires, thinning the coating and perhaps even exposing a copper strand. After thinking about the fact this pedal needs to work reliably for a long time, I realize am going to have to desolder all of the connections and put some shrink wrap on each wire so I can have "booties" that properly insulate all the ends. That is going to take a lot of time and will be a bit frustrating. It's going to be difficult to shrink those booties without melting any coating. My eyesight is such that I need to use a magnifying lamp, and that makes soldering and shrink-wrapping a number of individual wires more difficult.

So ... two thumbs up for the new assembly!!

I've used the new plug, and I love it. I think it makes for a much cleaner board and unit. You can always wire the old way is you choose, but the new board also eliminates a little bit of possibility for error.

I'm all for it. There's no tinniing wires or stripping little tiny bits off of wires. Very clean

i like it. it looks clean and makes the process go faster, not that i'm in a rush. the biggest pain in the ass i find is stripping the wires. i need to pick up on of those front facing auto stripper plier things.

I just built a 5-knob Compressor, and was surprised to find the new switch assembly. I have to say, that from a build standpoint, I friggin' LOVE it!

I just completed my first build, the 5 knob compressor - and I had no problems at all with the new switch assembly. I did get a new solder station (the Stahl that comes in the beginner kit) and the .032 solder (I originally started with .050 solder and the difference is quite significant. With the new iron and the .032, even the small close together points were not a problem. I'm looking at other kits and when I see the points on the PCB for the header but the notes that it isn't used,I'm actually a bit disappointed.

I found it easier and quicker. I used to dread the foot switch install, mainly because I'm lazy. Cutting, stripping, and tining all the wires was a pain. This is way better IMO. Nice that the PCB gives you both options, in case you are doing a mod that requires wiring the foot switch differently.

I like it way better, takes an hour off of the build time. Also much cleaner looking build.
Bart

I like it and think you should go back to it