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 Post subject: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 6:15 pm 
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Is there a way, when modifying your pedal to put a switch to change it from the stock settings to the mod settings?


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 8:54 pm 
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Depends on the mod your'e doing, but many pedal mods are rigged up to be switchable. What did you have in mind?

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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:19 pm 
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There was one that was for the ESV bender that I asked about which is changing the value of R6 from 470 ohms to between 1k and 4.7k (if you don't know what I'm talking about it's on another one of my posts (search for ESV bender mod). Is this one switchable?


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2010 10:01 pm 
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that should be possible. someone correct me, but this MIGHT work.

Mount a switch wherever you want. Remove R6 and solder one wire in the hole before R6 was. (i dont feel like figuring out how to wire the switch in case this wont work anyways). on one side of the switch, solder a 470 ohm resistor and solder your "mod" resistor to the other side of the switch. solder a wire to both resistors and solder them to the PCB in the hole after where R6 should be.

yes? no? sounds like it would work.


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 4:20 pm 
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Can you (or anybody) verify that because I don't want to go messing with my bender for nothing.


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 5:12 pm 
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I cant check it. there might be a better way to do it, but it should work. i would be able to check it but i am waiting on my FIRST shipment of parts :mrgreen:. Im getting a breadboard for testing though.


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 7:42 pm 
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That will work, but personally, I don't like "hanging" resistors off a SPDT toggle switch, which is pretty insecure. It's awfully easy to break off the resistor lead on one side or the other with that arrangement. I find using a DPDT switch gives a much more secure set-up, because you can solder one resistor across one of the outside pairs of lugs and the second resistor across the other outside pair. The two wires from the resistor eyelets on the PCB are then connected to the two center lugs of the switch; it doesn't matter which goes to what lug. Refer to the diagram in THIS POST--the only difference is that you'll have one of each of the resistors across each end of the switch, rather than a pair of diodes, as is shown.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sun Nov 07, 2010 7:45 pm 
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DPDT FTW!

hanging resistors is bad :evil:


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 2010 12:15 pm 
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I did the mod with the switch and it totally worked! Thanks for the help!


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 2010 8:47 pm 
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Ok I have a question. How do you bias both the stock and the mod because one sounds weird when the other one is fine


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 Post subject: Re: Mod Switching
PostPosted: Fri Nov 19, 2010 6:19 am 
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If you need to rebias the last tranny due to the change in the R6 value, you'll either need to go in the back and change the trimpot setting (damned inconvenient) or take the trimpot off the board and wire in an external bias pot instead, so that you can adjust on the fly. Shown in the Beavis fuzz mods.

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“My favorite programming language is SOLDER” - Bob Pease (RIP)

My Website * My Musical Gear * My DIY Pedals: Pg.1 - Pg.2


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