Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Build guide for the PCB is attached.

If you have questions about specific parts or sourcing, please ask them in this thread.

Looks great Forrest, I'm really looking forward to this one. I'm going to be using a NSL-­‐32SR2 optocoupler. IIRC, there's a dot near one lead that according to the datasheet indicates the negative (cathode) lead. And that correlates with the circular pad on D2, correct?

http://www.silonex.com/datasheets/specs/images/pdf/104057.pdf

Negative is the square pad.

Lol! typical, that's why I ask. . . .

If you have the schematic and the layout image side by side, you can figure out the orientation of any polarized part.

Also, the LED graphic on the board shows which side is the "flat" side, so you can use that as a guide as well.

Traveling for work is kicking my ass on this one. I totally forgot I bought boards for this one. I'm looking forward to building this!

Was able to print the BOM but can't print the schematic. The print link is not active when I pull it up.

Anyone else, or as usual just me?

It's just a PNG file, so any web browser should be able to view/print it.

Yeah, that's what I thought. I get sent those at work from various people and it always opens. Maybe a glitch for some reason here on this one. I'll print at home and see if it works.

I'm corn-fused b/c the LEDs are doing so much and it's not overly obvious (to me), so....



the CLR is not on the board, is it?

TIA

Check page 2 of the build guide. I explain what D1 and D2 are doing. They are both part of the LFO circuit.


If you want to have both a speed indicator LED and a bypass indicator LED, you will need to add the latter offboard. I built mine without a bypass indicator because I can very clearly hear if it's on or not. I can see if maybe I was playing lots of gigs, I'd want both.

As an alternative, you could also rewire things a bit and have the speed indicator LED also turn off when the pedal is bypassed. Check this page for a hint on how to do it:
http://www.home-wrecker.com/eatremolo.html

Just got my boards- man, white is the new black.

For sure: white boards FTW



I read that part, but guess it didn't 'click' first time around

Speed AND on/off LED (all in one) would be cool, but the one liner on that link went over my head.....might try to tackle that next time out....trying to decide between always on/cool, blinky light or status (I have no doubt I will hear on/off, but I have....*cough*....issues when it comes to this stuff, sometimes)

You can have both. Just an an extra LED the way you would with any other bypass indicator on any other build (e.g. - off the board).

Ooops....I meant on this particular build


I'm gonna use the enclosure from my failed vero Shoot the Moon, so there's only one spot for an LED (gotta maintain symmetry....)

So put the second LED vertically in line with the existing one.

fyi, I've got my two boards populated, and one is hooked up on my breadboard. Sounds real nice! I'm using a 3mm yellow diffused LED and Rat Shack LDR, if anyone is interested in such things..

Yes, the LDRs from the Rat Shack assortment pack seem to work fine (all of them). And I primarily use Tayda's LDRs for just about everything. With a Tayda LDR and a 3mm diffused LED (also from Tayda), the last one I built was about 95% as full chop at the Stutter Trem.

Dropped the flashing LED, so when it didn't light up, I figured I gorked it.....swapped it out and still got nothing....just gonna leave it on the board and wire up an off-board on/off LED like my OCD wanted me to do in the first place, lol




I used a 5k LDR (from Tayda) and a 5mm clear/white LED.....bent 'em over (teehee) so they are "facing" each other...shop suey


This is a way fun circuit and in my little experience yesterday afternoon got me from Neil Young/western-ish stuff to tripped out whackiness with delay thrown in......today/this WE gonna try it before delay (not sure why I never swapped 'em yesterday...having too much fun)

CJ do you have a good LED/LDR combo that you can recommend? This if my first time buying those and they are all a little different.

I used a cheap 3mm diffused LED in mine, and a small LDR. Got them both from Tayda.

But I tested it with several LEDs and several LDRs. Couldn't find a bad sound.

You probably know this, but I almost forgot to order IC's because they weren't listed in the BOM on the PDF (just pictured in the diagram)

IC1 - 4558
IC2 - TL072

Mammoth has a few 4558's - is there a correct one? : RC4558P, JRC4558D, NJM4558L

RC4558P and JRC4558D will work, not the NJM4558L, it's a «inline» IC

Thanks! Went with the RC4558P.

Op amp selection is really not critical. Just about anything will work.

I believe that CommonSound chose those op amps for the Trem Lune because: TL072 is quiet and has a very high input impedance; 4558 is cheap and easy to find.

Use whatever dual op amps you have on hand. It will work.