Build Your Own Clone Message Board

Anybody ever tried one of these http://www.mammothelectronics.com/4SFS3PDT-LS-I-p/800-1006.htm switches? I would argue they are not so "industrial"...

Well I ordered one a while back to try because the shorter "actuation" length looked nice to me. I tried it last night in a build and when I activated the switch with my hand to test it installed in the enclosure, it basically fell apart instantly. I had only soldered the jumpers and not with any excessive heat. Basically, the cylinder part separated from the square part if that makes sense, like nothing was holding it together strongly, and the mechanical part of the switch itself exerted so much pressure it just separated. The parts inside the cylinder fell out and I couldn't figure out how to get it back together. I wouldn't have used it anyways though. The blue switches always feel so sturdy, I was shocked when it happened.

My real concern is that I ordered 4 more of these switches in the DPDT variety for an amp footswitch, now I'm afraid to use them. I can post pics if anyone is interested.

Anybody else have experience with these switches?

LOL you read my mind!

Yeah, I did have one do this too, but not as catastrophic as your experience. Mine came separated, but the insides stayed intact, and I was able to bend the metal tabs and re-attach it, and it worked fine. I used a nut on the inside to keep the body away from the enclosure surface, and then it worked fine. Am I keen to order more of those? Not really. Sticking with the blue 3PDTs.

A. Shoot Blake at Mammoth an email....he stands behind his stuff.

B. I just assumed Industrial meant it was into guitar-based dance music, thus it was dressed in black.

Hilarious!


I will e-mail Blake, but to be totally honest I didn't have the bottom nut on the switch b/c it was going into a wah. Maybe these just aren't designed to be used without one...

You MUST have the bottom nut on a stomp switch when you install it. Otherwise you risk pulling the threaded bushing out of the switch if you over tighten the other nut.

+1. Sorry to hear about the fail, dbharris. I'll get you hooked up with a new one, but Stephen's totally right. The plastic chassis wasn't designed to take the pressure of a nut being cranked down on it. It must have the first nut in place against the underside of the enclosure, taking the pressure off the chassis.

These are rated as the 'industrial' series because of the ratings with the supplier. They have a longer actuating lifespan and the internal lever mechanism is more rugged. Most guys dig them because of the shorter actuating distance and tiny footprint. You practically HAVE to use the wiring board with it, though, due to the tiny solder lugs - they work better as PCB pins unless you have nimble fingers. I'm a huge fan of them, and I've seen them utilized well with some big manufacturers, but the Blue 3PDTs will always be the stand-by since they're so easy to work with and are pretty forgiving.

Blake, if it broke b/c I didn't have the bottom nut on, then it is really my fault it broke, not yours. I can accept that. It is great that you would offer to send me a replacement just to keep the customer happy. But the customer is not always right, and this was my fault. This wouldn't have kept me from shopping at Mammoth in the future anyways, and b/c of the customer service you provide I am even more inclined to try and shop there in the future when I can.

As for the bottom nut issue, I always use them in "normal" pedals. But it is my understanding and experience that with a wah or other treadle based effect, you cannot use the bottom nut b/c the switch will be too low to be actuated in the housing if the bottom nut is installed. Even the instructions for the BYOC wah say to remove the bottom nut...so I thought it would be OK.

Anyways, just my .02

My main concern was the other DPDT switches I have, but those are going into a traditional enclosure and will use the bottom nut, so no big deal there.

-Dan

I posted a thread specifically saying NOT to do this some time ago. The thread must have been lost after one of those SQL Error things.

I've edited this thread...

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=11727&p=80451#p80451

regarding the wah's stomp switch.

OK thanks Stephen, good to know and I'm sure it will help other people avoid this.

I use those with the wiring board regularly and have not had any issues with one user error exception. I purchased 8 and by mistake ordered momentary switches. . Again, otherwise I like the size and the wiring board (a must) and have used them without any issues.

That switch is thinner. In fact, it is quite the Skinny Puppy.

Haha! Excellent industrial jokes

My only gripe, thus far, with those is I CANNOT get wires in there...I have to wrap, cinch and solder...my hands weren't made for this!

I did use one on one of my non-working builds, but I feel blaming the switch would be random, at best, lol